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Script Fender Skin Replacement Because the original fenders are riveted to the support brackets it is not possible to properly clean and paint the surfaces between the brackets and the skins. As a result most fenders are heavily rusted in this area. Replacement skins are available in both script and non-script versions. All script fenders I have seen are about 1-2 Inches shorter than the originals but with that exception they are nearly identical. Because of the height difference you may ponder how to align the skins but what you will quickly realize is that the horizontal ridge and the holes used to mount the fender light brackets dictate the alignment. The following step by step instructions will guide you through the entire installation process and You will need the following tools and materials: Tools
Materials
The assumption is that you have already removed and discarded the old skins and that you have cleaned and primed the brackets. |
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| Step #1: Place one of the new fender skins on the saw horses. There is a single hole near the bottom center of the skin. Drill this hole to 3/8" in size. |
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| Step #2: Loosely bolt the lower bracket to the fender using a round head 3/8" X 1" Bolt, lock washer, and nut. The round head should be on the fender skin side. The slot will be filled later to simulate a rivet. Swing the bracket into position and center it. The upper holes of the bracket will be just slightly below the center of the horizontal ridge. Mark the location of the holes to be drilled using a felt marker or pencil then drill the first hole only. |
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| Step #3: Using one hex head 3/8" X 1 1/2" bolt, washer, lock washer, and nut, fasten the bracket through the hole drilled in step #2. Tighten both bolts so the bracket does not move while you drill the remainder of the holes. |
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| Step #4: Place the upper bracket on the assembly to identify clearance. Do not be alarmed. Less material than you think will have to be removed from the upper bracket to allow for proper fit. Use a Philips screw in any opposing hole to assist with the bracket alignment during steps 4 through 7. |
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| Step #5: Mark two spots approximately 7" long and about 1/4" deep to be ground. Place the bracket in a vice and using the angle grinder remove the identified material. |
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| Step #6: Re-install the upper bracket using one hex head 3/8" X 1 1/2" bolt on each side. The upper bracket should be on top of the lower bracket. Locate and drill the center hole in the upper bracket. Bolt upper bracket through this center hole using a round head 3/8" X 1" bolt, lock washer, and nut. Locate and drill the remaining two holes in the upper bracket and fasten using hex head 3/8" X 1" bolts, washers, lock washers, and nuts. |
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| Step #7: Install the remaining two hex head 3/8" X 1 1/2" bolt on each side. |
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| Step #8: Flip the fender over to view your completed assembly. Repeat steps 1-8 for second fender. then disassemble both to begin the paint process on step 9. Keep the parts matched in sets so they go back together smoothly. |
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| Step #9: Paint the inside of the fenders where the brackets touch. |
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| Step #10: Paint the side of the brackets that go against the skins. |
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| Step #11: If you are going to have light brackets, paint the area where the bracket(s) will be attached. Also paint the brackets if they are not already painted. This is a good time to call it a day since you'll need time for the paint to dry. |
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| Step #12: Re-assemble both fenders. Using a pair of saw horses and a 4' length of board, build a work surface to hold the fenders during the painting process. |
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| Step #13: Fasten the fenders to the work surface using wood screws and fender washers. |
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| Step #14: Once the paint has been applied move the project indoors to avoid damage from bugs and the weather. |
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| Step #15: Mark and drill the access hole for light wire. |
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